California, Here We Come!

Crossing the bar at Eureka

The journey down the Washington, Oregon, and Northern California coastlines is often a harrowing tale, complete with gales, enormous seas, broken equipment, and frazzled sailors. Our trip has been exactly the opposite, thanks to a huge high-pressure cell. In fact, our annoyance has been the lack of wind. In 12 days and 900 miles from Seattle to Bodega Bay, we have powered all but six hours (predictably off of Cape Mendocino). Oh, well-you take what you are given!

A Fishing Couple at Brookings

We last wrote to you as we were leaving Westport. From there we did day hops to Garibaldi (near Tillamook), Newport, Charleston (near Coos Bay), Bandon, Brookings, Eureka and Bodega Bay, before heading on into San Francisco. A few highlights included the gobs of fishermen leaving Garibaldi at daybreak, finding the Charleston breakwater in the fog, talking with the firefighters and fishermen at Brookings and seeing the old Victorian charm of Eureka. Another thrill was a spirited crossing of the Eureka bar. We surfed and slewed our way in, pushed along by 8’ rollers against an ebb current. It makes be shudder to think what it is like when the seas are big! Now after a bunch of miles (way, way too much motoring) and even a few over nighters, we are ready for the bright lights of San Francisco.

Fanciness in Eureka

Having spent some time now on both the Eastern and Western US coasts, it is interesting to compare the two. The West Coast is certainly more challenging, due in large part to the absence of anything like the East Coast Intra-coastal waterway. The West Coast sailor is at the mercy of the elements, with 50-150 miles between ports or anchorages, a predominate north west swell and much colder waters. Both coasts have a struggling fishing industry, although the sea life is more evident on the West Coast. The West Coast has the scenery, the east Coast has the history. But on both coasts the local down-home people, ready to help out however they can.

Another observation is regarding absence—the absence of boats on the West Coast. Here is the listing of fellow boaters that we saw from Port Townsend to Bodega Bay, over a 12-day passage:

***1 submarine off Port Angeles

Sunset at Crescent City

***A dozen or so fish boats, mostly off Oregon

***Three cargo ships, seen on AIS

*** ONE recreational boat, a 70’ powerboat, north bound off of Cape Mendocino

That’s it—it’s a really lonesome ocean out there!

As we head into the Golden Gate, we send you our best, as we are now relieved to have the perilous Northwest Coast in our rear-view mirror.

Roger, Lynne, and Salty (who is really relieved to put four feet on the ground for a while)

206-755-4193 or rdwerner47@gmail.com