Sunday, April 22, 2018

Where the Desert meets the Sea

Agua Verde

The 125 miles between La Paz and Loreto reminds us of cruising in the Northwest on the Sunshine Coast and Desolation Sound--except that you trade cactus for cedar trees, warm water for cold water, and sunshine for overcast. There are very few urban centers on the Sea of Cortez with La Paz being the largest and Loreto being one of the few others. In between these towns there is virtually nothing but a few scattered fishermen villages.  Here, you are totally off the grid! But the scenery is spectacular--blending the brown of American Southwest with the turquoise waters of the South Pacific.

We have spent nearly a month traveling slowly from La Paz to Loreto and returning. In that
Fresh Caught Dinner!
passage, there are dozens and dozens of anchorages, each one with its own character. At San Everisto we negotiated with the local fishermen for a freshly caught and super yummy fish. At Agua Verde we were delayed as a northerly cold front came through, giving us a chance to get better acquainted with some of the other boaters in the anchorage. This included a hike to see the petroglyphs, a bocce game, and a trip to the beachfront taco palapa stand. In Ballandra Bay, at the north end of Carman Island, we also hooked up with other cruisers and made several hikes into the back country, spotting bighorn sheep. At
Yellowstone Beach on Isla Monserrat, we walked for miles on a sandy beach we had all to
Life at 73 Degrees
ourselves. As a diversion we hiked up an arroyo and were treated to a delightful desert garden with quite a floral variety. And on Isla San Francisco we took in a perfect white sand crescent beach both from the water level and from the nearby hillsides. Cruisers have told us they have spent years shuttling back and forth on the Sea of Cortez and still have more to explore. We are beginning to understand what they mean.


At this point we are returning to La Paz so that Roger can attend the annual financial planning conference in San Diego put on by the brokerage company he uses. Before leaving La Paz, we plan to meet up with Ken MacDonald who is coming down Baja on the Baja 1000 off road race. Both of
Baaaa
us will have some good stories to tell each other, a few of which might even be true.

That about all for now. From here we sail north back up from La Paz to Loreto, then keep going to Santa Rosalia before crossing over the Sea of Cortez to San Carlos. Then Schatzi will be moored there for six months to wait out the hot and rainy hurricane season in summer and early fall. Our flight to Seattle leaves on May 23 and have a lot of catching up to do once we return.

Isla San Francisco
Moon Rise over Baja
Thank you to all of you who have connected back to us. We really appreciate the contacts with our family and friends while we are out here continuing our adventure. This post is written on April 17 (Tax Day!), so we send a special hello to our friends at Werner O’Meara and Co. We look forward to seeing you soon,

Roger, Lynne, and Salty
You can reach us at 206-755-4193 or email

rdwerner47@gmail.com

Sunday, April 8, 2018

Travels With Salty

Our Little Fellow

Roger is currently reading John Steinbeck’s novel--The Log of the Sea of Cortez.  Steinbeck’s classic provides an interesting comparison of how the Sea of Cortez appears to a visitor in 1939 compared to that of today. Of course, John Steinbeck was also the author of Travels with Charley, his 1960s book about traveling around the U.S.  accompanied by his trusty pooch, Charlie. This has many parallels with our cruising with our trusty pooch, Salty.

There are a number of good cruising guides for the waters we have traveled from Seattle down to the Mexican Pacific Coast. However, there is scant mention anywhere of traveling with a pet. This was also true of our experiences of cruising the East Coast with Salty. Pet owners talk among themselves and pass bits of information gleaned from
Salty with his bed and toys
experience or from the Internet. We were told that we would need a veterinarian’s health certificate prior to bringing Salty into Mexico. After paying several hundred dollars for a suitable health certificate, we presented it at our check in at Ensenada. No one was the least bit interested.  This random nature of cruising with pets has been the rule not the exception with our cruising with Salty.

There are many unique factors in cruising with pets. One is dinghy trips ashore. For cruisers without a pet, a trip ashore is a pleasant option taken when
Looking for shore leave
conditions present themselves.  For pet owners, trips ashore are a necessary event 2-3 times a day, unless your pet is trained to stay on the boat. Dinghy beach landings can be very benign--or not. Coming down the Pacific Coast the ever-present ocean swell creates shore waves. These may be small, but they are always present. Thus, when one comes ashore on the Baja Coast, you learn to do beach landings with a swell. Our baptism by fire was at Asuncion, BCN. We managed to ride the waves into the beach. But when we went to leave, a puny two-foot swell was enough to roll our dinghy over on top of us, trapping Salty underneath and tossing our possessions into the water. We rapidly scooped Salty up and then he scooted right to shore, as we gathered in the rest of our possessions. We subsequently learned somewhat better techniques--wait for a period of settled waves, put
At Anchor in Mazatlan
everybody into the dinghy except the pusher, the pusher then pushes the dinghy out well past knee deep, jumps into the dinghy, fires up the outboard, and motors over the next couple waves. A quick few paddles also help to keep the bow pointed into the waves, where the dinghy harmlessly takes on the waves.

Another pet consideration is piddling and pooping (PNP).  We have read and that several cruisers have told us that given enough time at sea, dogs will learn to PNP on deck.  However, Salty, being half schnauzer and very stubborn, has only piddled on board once. He has managed to hold out for upwards of 34 hours until we get his paws on terra firma. We have tried all of the tricks: the grass mat, a piddled-on stump, treats and pleadings, walking around the boat with his leash on him, to no avail.  Oh well...
  
Roger, Lynne, Salty &
a 300 year old olive tree
And then there’s the matter of whether Salty is welcome to cruise with us at the stops we would like to make. We have found restaurants in Mexico (and French Canada and French Caribbean) are particularly dog friendly. We have been permitted to take Salty in virtually every restaurant we have patronized with the exception of just a few of the more upscale urban establishments. Mexican National Parks has a rule that no dogs are permitted ashore. However, we have spoken with many cruisers and the word is to use discretion. So long as you don’t mix up Salty in a crowd of people or wander too far off the beach, he seems to be quite welcome. There also is the helpful consideration that park rangers are way underfunded in Mexico and that enforcement of park rules is virtually nonexistent.
Schatzi at anchor

Of course, Salty is an important part of our crew and of our life. Roger has often commented “If Salty doesn’t go, Lynne doesn’t go; if Lynne doesn’t go, then Roger doesn’t go!”. Salty seems to do well making his home on the boat with his nest of toys, his chuck it throw balls, and his personal perch just inside the dodger. He makes our cruising much richer and we would never dream of cruising without him. Now we just need to author the guide book to cruising with your pooch!

Roger, Lynne, and Salty
You can reach us at 206-755-4193 or email rdwerner47@gmail.com